By the Shores of Gitchee Gumee

Gitchee Gumee as Longfellow referred to it, Gichigami or “Big Water” to the Ojibwe natives, Lake Superior was my destination for the day. Lake Superior State Forest campground on the dirt portion of H-58 east of Grand Marais was where I hoped to find a campsite to spend a night on the big lake.

As I was loading up for the day, a fellow hotel guest asked me a few questions about the V-Strom. He is a long haul trucker but has a Gold Wing at home he gets to ride on occasion. Without fail, the question, “Do you feel safe as a woman traveling alone?” came up. I’m very used to this question and explained that in general I feel very safe and that common sense is the best tool to protecting yourself while touring. Checked out and loaded up, I was on the road around 8:00am, heading north again! As always, being in the Upper Peninsula felt great, it was nice to be away from the city for a bit.

Heading through Newberry, I noticed signs in store windows thanking firefighters for their help, evidence of this spring’s Duck Lake forest fires. I made the turnoff to Muskallonge Lake and H-58, 23 miles until the pavement ends and the V-Strom fun begins! The Wee handled the dirt road quite well despite its fairly worn street tires, I stood on the pegs and enjoyed the fresh air. Thankfully, when I finally made it to my destination campground there were several campsites available. I decided on site #4, a fairly secluded site with a path down to Lake Superior. I quickly unloaded my drybag full of camping gear, set up my little tent and hung my new ENO Singlenest Hammock (review to soon follow).

Lake Superior State Forest Campground – Site #4

Dragging myself out of the hammock was a chore but I had to head into Grand Marais to grab a bite to eat. Riding the Wee into town was a ball, I was singing at the top of my lungs as I pulled into town, The Sportsman’s Restaurant was my stop. I was hoping breakfast was served all day, I love their french toast, but they stopped breakfast at 11:00 I was there at 11:05, bummer. After inhaling (my normal mode of eating) my burger, I buzzed across the street to the small town grocery store to pickup pop, adult beverages and some grub for the evening.

Hmm…no cooler for the beer or the pop, time for some moto-camper improvisation. Since the V-Strom didn’t have Givi bag hangers, I was using some older soft saddlebags for this trip. I lined one side with a grocery bag and filled it with ice – instant cooler!

My moto-camper cooler – still had ice left the next morning

I had one more stop to make before heading to my home for the night, on our recent car camping trip we found a great source of firewood just east of town. This guy had a firewood buffet, you could choose from several different hardwoods, softwoods and small pieces of split cedar for kindling. I grabbed a bundle of birch and a bundle of cedar kindling and strapped them to the bike – have I mentioned Rok Straps are one of the best moto inventions ever?

The Wee makes a great firewood hauler

Singing Janis Joplin’s ‘Mercedes Benz’ at the top of my lungs, I was loving life!  That’s when it happened…I overreacted to a car coming the opposite way (narrow truck trail type road).  I pulled too far to the right and the bike’s front wheel  was sucked into about 5 inches of sand.  As the bike swerved slightly, I did something very stupid…chopped the throttle instead of accelerating, my back wheel hopped over the sandy embankment on the side of the road.  Looking back, adding to the V-Strom’s top heavy nature by loading firewood up top probably wasn’t the best idea 🙂

With adrenaline (and embarrassment) surging, I did the first thing I could think of…I grabbed the Wee by the bars and yanked all 500 lbs of it in a rage.  I never said I was bright!  As I righted the bike, it started slipping in the sand and I had to quickly set it back down.  Despite the diminutive assigned to it, the Wee is anything but little and light!  It was then I started to realize I was a bit bruised and shredded, the bike was damaged very little thanks to the frame sliders and other safety doodads.  While standing on the side of the road trying to figure out how I was going to get myself out of this mess, a couple in a truck showed up, followed by a trio of dual-sport riders – a sight for sore eyes!

After a bit of effort, we got the bike up but still had to contend with the rear wheel being stuck in a sandy embankment.  The guy from the truck and one of the dual-sporters pushed while I hit the throttle and I was finally out of the mess.  Thank goodness for kind strangers.  I’ve never backpacked but have heard of “trail magic” in the form of people unexpectedly helping or the like.  For as much as people worry about me traveling alone, I’ve experienced the motorcycle touring equivalent of “trail magic” more than once.  For anyone feeling down on mankind, take a road trip, meet some great people, it’ll restore your faith in the good of people!

The couple in the truck were heading my way, so they loaded up my firewood and followed me to the campground.  After thanking them profusely, and offering them a cold one (the beer survived the crash thankfully), they were off, on their way to their campground.  Still shaking from the crash, I cracked open a beer and attempted to calm myself down.  Prior to crashing, my intent was to head over to the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore and hike the Chapel Loop, one of my favorite hikes in the area.  After the crash, I decided I should just stay put, enjoy a beer or two and relax.

Sweating from the effort of wrestling the motorcycle, I took a quick dip in Lake Superior followed by a nap in the hammock.  I swear ENO has perfected time travel, whenever I get in that hammock it’s all of a sudden 2 hours later 🙂  It will definitely be a constant in my motorcycle camping kit from now on.

A quick rest in my ENO Hammock – doubles as clothesline!

After I managed to get a decent campfire going without lighting my hair on fire (which I’ve done the last couple times I’ve camped) I headed down to the beach for the sunset.  Despite the black flies trying to make me a meal, the sunset was beautiful – it was going to be a great night!

Trying out the Crazy Creek Hexlite chair (another soon to review) while enjoying the campfire

Sunset on Lake Superior

There was no rain in the nighttime forecast so instead of sleeping in my stuffy tent, I dragged my sleeping bag to the hammock and crawled in.  I quickly slipped into sleep under the stars next to the dying embers of the campfire.

BMW Motorcycles of Grand Rapids – Ladies’ Day 2012

If you’re in the area tomorrow March 10^th come down to BMW Motorcycles of Grand Rapids to check out Ladies’ Day 2012. In addition to product reps from Tucker Rocky, Helmet House, Parts Unlimited and Gerbings (and some nice giveaways), several local women riders will be in attendance sharing stories and experiences from their two wheel travels.

Bill Murphy, author of “Motorcycling Across Michigan” (in addition to several other state guides), will also be there to release his new book “Grace and Grit” chronicling the trials and adventures of female motorcyclists in the early 20^th century. I can’t wait to get my hands on it!

So if you’re a woman rider, a passenger or a woman that has always dreamed of seeing the world on two wheels it’ll be the place to be!

Leaving Moab

Go Pro video of heading out of Moab, UT via 128, great motorcycle road along the Colorado River.  I’ll admit my video editing leaves a bit to be desired but at least it shows the gorgeous scenery along the route 🙂

Boulder Mountain Utah – Hail Storm

I had the GoPro running as I rode through a quick hail storm on Boulder Mountain on UT-12.  Yep, I was yelping a bit as those hailstones hit – those little buggers hurt on a motorcycle.  I felt lucky, the guys I passed on the way up didn’t have helmets on… OUCH!!

Leaving Devil’s Tower

Just a quick Go Pro video from my recent trip out west.  This is leaving Devil’s Tower heading toward Moorcroft, WY – great road with few motorhomes!!

To the Land of the Giants

Thankfully, today would be short ride, an hour ride from Tulare to the day’s destination, Sequoia National Park.  Sequoia is a place I’ve wanted to visit for a very long time, it’s hard for me to believe that trees could grow to such sizes and now I would have a chance to see them in person.

What I wasn’t prepared for was the ride to the park, I had no idea how many orchards were in this particular area.  Orange, Lemon and Olive groves lined the road for the majority of the ride.  The smell was unbelievable, I couldn’t stop taking huge breaths to inhale as much of the wonderful aroma as possible!!

As I rode nearer to the park, the foothills started to come into view and soon would rise above me on both sides of the road.  Upon entering Three Rivers, CA the mighty Kaweah River appeared, frothing and bubbling over the large rocks in the riverbed.

Through the gates to the park and into the Foothills Visitor’s Center I decided Buckeye Flats Campground would be where I would setup camp for the night.  The hillsides were covered with blooming Yuccas and various wildflowers and the Kaweah was still in view, I eventually found the campground and followed the narrow drive down to the sites.

Apparently, Sunday at check-out time is a good time to arrive to find a great campsite!!  I cruised the loop a couple of times and settled on a huge site overlooking the river.  After setting up, I decided to try to ride up the mountain to get my first glimpse of the big trees.  After about 15 minutes of twisty roads I started riding into the clouds and my faceshield became coated with sleet, time to turn around, the big trees would have to wait until morning.

After returning to camp, I decided to check out the little trail that I saw running through camp to the river.  As I was grabbing some food and getting ready to head out, another motorcyclist pulled up.  Carl from Frazier, CO was exploring back roads around UT, NV, and CA and wondered if I’d mind sharing a campsite (NPS allows two motorcycles per campsite).  The more the merrier (and cheaper) especially when fellow motorcyclists are concerned 🙂

Carl, being a long distance off-road runner, geared up for a trail run as I was heading out to hike the trail.

Campground Trail

The Mighty Kaweah River

Meadow along the trail

One of the many wildflowers along the trail

Random photos from the trail

I learned a very valuable lesson on that little hike…rocks along the river are slippery and cameras smash easily 🙂  I slipped on the trail and fell forward with the front of my nicer point-and-shoot smashing on a rock to the point where the lens would no longer extend.  Bummer, at least I had my extra little cheapo camera and could hold off buying a replacement until Vegas.

While heading back to camp, I felt a slight mist start which opened up into a thunderstorm when I got back into the tent.  The pattering of the rain on my tent and the rumbles of thunder lulled me into a sleep, what better way to spend a rainy evening in the land of the giants?

White Knuckle Ride

What is it with motels and stale Fruit Loops…I mean, I’m staying at the finest money can buy…Super 8, LOL!!  Oh well, it’s free and a nice variation from my standard fare of beef jerky and cheese sticks 🙂

Yesterday I decided that pushing and pushing from one destination to the next is not all that much fun.  After departing from the expressway west of Albuquerque, I’ve most definitely enjoyed myself more than just hammering out miles on the super slab.

I’m starting to settle in to the fact that for the next few weeks I’m sans schedule and have been sleeping and getting on the road a bit later than I would usually.

Since I opted to stop early and stay in Camp Verde, this morning I’m able to check out Montezuma’s Castle National Monument.  I was surprised at how full the parking lot was and how many tour buses there were.  After fighting my way into the visitor’s center to stamp my National Parks Passport and to purchase the ever elusive “AAA Indian Country Map” I headed out toward the ruins.

Now in Michigan, we don’t have lizards darting about on the sidewalks whenever a step is taken, so it’s quite a novelty to me.  They are so fast and funny it’s hard not to laugh at them.

Lizard Buddy

After a short walk through a gauntlet of other overexcited tourists I was able to get my first glimpse at the ruins.  Though my favorite ruins to visit are in their natural state, in places where there aren’t crowds, the ability and ingenuity of the cliff dwellers never ceases to amaze me!!

Montezuma’s Castle

After baking in the sun for a bit too long I decided it was time to hit the road.  On the way out, I couldn’t help but smile when I saw a jet with a perfect contrail making its way across the sky above the castle.  What a contrast from 1,000 years ago to now!!  What would the Sinagua people think if they saw a jet flying over? 🙂

Progress?

My plan was to head north on I-17 toward Flagstaff to catch AZ-89 down to Sedona.  I definitely made the right decision by stopping in Camp Verde, there were at least 10 dead elk on the side of the expressway!!

I thought I could make it to Flagstaff before I need gas, but my light went on about 20 miles north of Camp Verde (yeah, I know I should have filled up before I left).  Thankfully, the Mund Park exit came shortly after with a Shell station right off the highway.

As I finished filling up, a guy came over and started asking the standard questions “Where ya heading?” “You traveling alone?” “Where are you from?”  He then told me that several years ago, he had loaded up his Norton and did odd jobs while working his way across the country for a year.  How amazing would that be?!?!  Across the parking lot, he was selling carved statues that he had made.

Keeping with my tradition of gas station dining, I passed over the healthy apples and oranges and grabbed yet another cheese stick and some black cherry soda.  A couple from Phoenix, both riders, asked about my trip, gave suggestions for routes and warned me about tar snakes along the route.

The ride from Flagstaff to Sedona along 89a was fantastic (and a little bit scary – good warmup for later), tons of switchbacks, red rock cliffs and evergreens.  Prior to leaving I had read quite a bit about Slide Rock State Park so decided to stop for a bit to check it out.

Slide Rock is a natural red rock water slide on the Oak River, from what I could tell while I was there it’s a pretty happenin’ swimming spot!!  I didn’t think my motorcycle garb would cut it down the slide so I opted for a hike on the upper part of the little canyon.  Unfortunately, I didn’t study anything about the local flora and fauna prior to my trip and ended up with a bleeding wound on my palm.  For those of you that didn’t know, agave is not aloe and has very sharp points which puncture innocent hikers hands 🙂

See the scary spikes?!?!?

After walking along the creek a bit and giving the old tootsies a soak, I saddled up and headed south to Sedona – the headquarters for new age vortices and large red rock formations.  My first impression of the city was that of Mackinaw City (for you Michiganders) in red, lots of T-shirt shops and theme bars.  Aside from a nice conversation with the owner of one of the t-shirt shops,  I wasn’t getting the greatest feel from the town so I decided it was time to move on – next time I’ll have to explore the natural areas around the city, perhaps I’ll enjoy it a little more.

Just to prove I was there

Heading south out of Sedona, my nerves started to surface as the road climbed higher into the town of Jerome, an old mining town built on the top of a mountain.  If my nerves weren’t fried before that, Jerome definitely finished them off!! I stopped at the Mingus Mountain Scenic Overlook outside of town to calm down for a bit (have you guessed, I’m afraid of heights).  While living in Phoenix, Andy rode this route quite a bit so I gave him a quick call for reassurance…he convinced me that I had to come down from the mountain at some point.  In hindsight, the road and accompanying scenery were gorgeous it was just a little overwhelming because I had never ridden anything with exposed switchbacks and dizzying heights prior to that.

Mingus Mountain Overlook – I look alot more relaxed than I was 🙂

Upon descending into Prescott, I decided I was running out of daylight and instead of taking the route I had originally planned, I’d head north to Ash Forks where I could catch I-40 west to Kingman.  Motoring into the sunset as semi trucks sped past, I was finally able to experience the purple mountain majesty we sang about in school.  I pulled into the Days Inn, grabbed some Sonic from across the street (Andy Devine St. for you western movie buffs)